Living off the Sea

We spent a few days last week in Galicia, Spain, and seeing how much life there is linked to the sea gave me the idea for this weekend's special.

Do you have any ideas for future weekend specials? Please send them to info@theslowscroll.com or reply to this email.

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The Barnacle Queens of the Spanish Seaside

Roads & Kingdoms • 9 Nov 2016 • ~6100 words

Since my visit to Galicia inspired this collection, starting with a story from there feels right. This article is about the González sisters, four women from Galicia who are percebeiras - hunters and gatherers of the highly prized and dangerous to harvest gooseneck barnacle. It explores the sisters' fight to break down the male-dominated culture of the barnacle fishing industry, as well as the physical risks and challenges they face in their work. The article offers a glimpse into their unique journey, filled with resilience, sisterly bonds, and the raw power of the sea.

To be a successful percebes hunter, you must negotiate a series of natural challenges—frigid water temperatures, the fierce Galician weather, and the force and unpredictability of the ocean at its angriest. Almost everyone living in these coastal towns has lost a friend or a family member to the Atlantic.

The King Crab Kings

Bloomberg.com • 29 May 2024 • ~3350 words • Archive Link

In a small Norwegian village, the arrival of king crabs has transformed both the local economy and the fishing landscape. This article explores how an unexpected ecological change, combined with geopolitical events and climate change, has created a thriving Norwegian king crab export business that now supplies high-end restaurants worldwide, while also raising concerns about the long-term sustainability of the crab population. The article examines the complex interplay of environmental, economic, and social factors that have shaped this unique situation.

In just three decades, the crabs have gone from scourge to savior. They still need to be managed as an invasive species, but now that they’ve become a pillar of the regional economy, the Norwegian government needs to take care to sustain them, too.

Sea Scallops Farmed in Maine Aren’t Just Sustainable. They’re Helping Their Habitat.

New York Times • 23 Aug 2021 • ~2100 words • Archive Link

The article discusses the growing industry of sea scallop farming in Maine, which is providing a sustainable and potentially beneficial alternative to the wild scallop fishery. It explores how these scallop farms are not only producing high-quality scallops, but may also be helping to bolster the local wild scallop population. The article also examines the challenges and labor-intensive nature of scallop farming, as well as the growing demand and market potential for farmed sea scallops.

Bivalve farming also doesn’t compromise its habitat: In fact, the presence of shellfish like scallops, mussels and oysters actively improves it by filtering the water and increasing biodiversity . . . Scallops may even go one step further, reinforcing the local wild scallop population, something that’s been shown to occur with oyster populations.

Freedom on the Line

The Baffler • 1 May 2021 • ~5850 words

This article explores the debt bondage system that traps many fishermen along the Indus River in Punjab, Pakistan. It examines the complex power dynamics between the fishermen, government contractors, and officials, and the legal challenges the fishermen face in trying to break free from this exploitative system. The article raises questions about the role of the state, the persistence of debt bondage in modern economies, and the struggles of marginalized communities to assert their rights and livelihoods.

Migrant fishermen from the lower Indus are often more susceptible to debt bondage. You need money, if only a little, to start a new life. You need connections. The most insidious part of the contract system is the gloss of choice. You signed, voluntarily. At the start of the annual fishing season, the previous year’s debt was carried forward. If there was a new contractor, he took over the total debt from his predecessor. In a sense, he bought the fishermen.

Mental Health and the Modern Fisherman

Hakai Magazine • 16 Mar 2021 • ~4250 words

In the demanding world of commercial fishing, mental health struggles often go unnoticed amidst the physical dangers of the job. This article explores the unique pressures fishermen face—from economic uncertainty to regulatory burdens—and highlights an innovative initiative aimed at providing much-needed mental health support within this tight-knit community. Dive in to discover how advocates are working to break the stigma and address the psychological toll of life on the water.

There isn’t a lot of direct data on mental health within commercial fishing communities, but the research that is available paints a grim picture. In the United States, commercial fishermen, often grouped with workers in agriculture, forestry, and hunting industries, show suicide rates double the national average and workplace fatalities 29 times higher than average.

Seeding the Ocean: Inside a Michelin-Starred Chef’s Revolutionary Quest to Harvest Rice From the Sea

TIME • 9 Jan 2021 • ~5250 words • Archive Link

Meet Ángel León, a Michelin-starred chef on a mission to transform our understanding of ocean cuisine. In this piece, we dive into his revolutionary quest to cultivate rice from the sea, challenging culinary norms while advocating for sustainability. His innovative approach not only redefines what we can eat from the ocean but also highlights the urgent need for environmental stewardship.

The Spaniards call him the Chef del Mar, a man singularly dedicated to the sea and its bounty. But Aponiente isn’t anything like other gilded seafood temples around the world. You won’t find Norwegian lobster there. Or Scottish langoustines. Or Hokkaido uni. In fact, unless you’re an Andalusian fisherman it’s unlikely you’ll know most of the species León serves to his guests.

My Priceless Summer on a Maine Lobster Boat

Outside Online • 11 Nov 2020 • ~3150 words

Ever wondered what it’s like to spend a summer on a lobster boat in Maine? This piece takes you on a personal journey as the author learns the ins and outs of lobstering, revealing the unique camaraderie among fishermen and the gritty beauty of life at sea.

There was pride in this work that I’d never felt before, in the self-reliance of it, in the wealth of knowledge Leigh held about all things that moved the sea to surge or settle, and in the understanding that every lobster you set your hands to was more money earned for the boat.

Born to Swim

Hakai Magazine • 26 Mar 2019 • ~4550 words

In the ocean village of Sampela, the Bajau people showcase incredible swimming and diving skills that have fascinated researchers for decades. . This article examines the physiological adaptations that may have enabled the Bajau to thrive in a marine environment, and investigates whether these adaptations are the result of genetic evolution or simply extensive practice and training. The article also considers the broader implications of the Bajau's aquatic lifestyle for understanding the evolutionary history of human interaction with the ocean.

For two hours, the fishers perform a ritual far removed from the industrial fishing supply chain. They dive, swim, and hunt—flowing through the water, part of the marine landscape, just more sea creatures slipping through the undulating reef ecosystem. Every fourth dive or so, one of them returns to the surface and lobs a parrotfish, sturgeon, wrasse, or grouper into the boat. As morning turns to noon, the fish pile higher and higher, yet the fishers’ pace never falters, a remarkable feat given their limited recovery time at the surface.

Cheap at sea, pricey on the plate: The voodoo of lobster economics

The Globe and Mail • 11 Jul 2014 • ~4250 words • Archive Link

This piece provides a look at the journey of a lobster named Larry, from being caught off the coast of Nova Scotia to being served at a restaurant in Toronto. It explores the complex economics and logistics behind the lobster industry, examining how a low shore price for fishermen can translate into an exorbitant restaurant price for consumers. The article also delves into the ethical considerations around the treatment of lobsters and the public's perception of them as a luxury food item.

There is a voodoo to lobster economics. What used to be poor man’s fare, the fallback meal of people too impoverished to afford anything else, is now a billion dollar business and a universal mark of luxury – with the result that a lobster that sells for $3.50 on the wharf can cost $60 and more on a restaurant plate in New York or Toronto or Shanghai, regardless of how many lobsters are pulled from the sea. How this happens is the life story of Larry the Lobster.

The last whalers

Aeon • 21 Mar 2018 • ~2700 words

This article explores the history of whaling in the Shetland Islands and the experiences of Shetland men who worked as whalers, commuting from the North Sea to Antarctica in the mid-20th century. It delves into the cultural and economic significance of whaling for the Shetland community, as well as the eventual decline of the industry due to overfishing and changing technologies. This is a poignant look at how a way of life can change irrevocably while leaving behind lasting memories and bonds.

Many of the Shetlanders spoke about whaling as a deep and broad experience, an identity, a unique landscape, the allure of the whale itself. ‘There’s no doubt about that,’ says Jamieson. The close quarters of a whaling ship, albeit an entire factory floating in the middle of the sea, created a kind of seclusion that even the edge of Antarctica couldn’t bring.

Inside the Slimy, Smelly, Secretive World of Glass-Eel Fishing

The New Yorker • 17 Jun 2024 • ~8050 words • Archive Link

This intriguing piece provides an in-depth look into the secretive and lucrative world of glass eel fishing in Maine. It explores the complex life cycle of the American eel, the challenges of eel conservation and aquaculture, as well as the criminal elements that have infiltrated the glass eel trade. The article raises questions about the sustainability of this fishery and the balance between economic opportunity and environmental protection. It’s a fascinating look at how one tiny fish can create a ripple effect through communities and ecosystems alike.

Glass eels are an ideal target for subterfuge, because they run at night and because once they’re out of the water it is impossible to prove where they came from. The risk-reward ratio makes them irresistible. Eel smuggling, reportedly a four-billion-dollar-a-year trade spanning at least three continents, has been called the world’s least known but most profitable wildlife crime.

When There Are No More Fish

Eater • 29 Dec 2017 • ~3750 words • Archive Link

In the heart of Cambodia, the once-abundant Tonle Sap Lake is facing a troubling decline in fish stocks, leaving local fishermen and their families in a state of uncertainty. This piece explores the intricate connection between the lake's ecology, economic development, and the daily struggles of those who depend on its waters for survival. It's a look at how environmental changes are reshaping lives and livelihoods in a community deeply tied to its natural resources.

The fish, some 500,000 tons of which are caught each year, feed the nation, providing the main source of protein for as much as 80 percent of the population, and they feed Cambodia’s neighbors, who import thousands of tons each year as part of a $2 billion industry.

The Deliciously Fishy Case of the “Codfather”

Mother Jones • 30 Mar 2017 • ~3700 words

In a fascinating look into the world of commercial fishing, this piece explores the rise and fall of Carlos Rafael, known as the "Codfather," who exploited loopholes in the fishing industry to dominate New England's waters. The article delves into the complexities of catch-share systems, the impact of consolidation on small fishermen, and what Rafael's downfall could mean for the future of sustainable fishing.

Other catch-share programs have taken pains to dilute fishing power . . . But in insular New England, similar controls would have required busting up the Northeast’s most powerful fishing enterprise: Carlos Seafood Inc., the Codfather’s company. “He didn’t influence the process in an outward way,” says Goethel, the council’s sole dissenting vote. “But his corporation loomed over everything.”

Global supermarkets selling shrimp peeled by slaves

Associated Press • 12 Dec 2015 • ~3800 words

The article investigates the widespread problem of human trafficking and forced labor in the Thai shrimp industry, where migrant workers are trapped in abusive conditions and their slave-peeled shrimp is exported to global supermarkets and restaurants. It highlights the challenges in addressing this issue, including corruption, lack of enforcement, and the difficulty in tracing the origins of shrimp products in complex supply chains.

Hundreds of shrimp peeling sheds are hidden in plain sight on residential streets or behind walls with no signs in Samut Sakhon, a port town an hour outside Bangkok. The AP found one factory that was enslaving dozens of workers, and runaway migrants led rights groups to the Gig shed and a third facility. All three sheds held 50 to 100 people each, many locked inside.

A Renegade Trawler, Hunted for 10,000 Miles by Vigilantes

New York Times • 28 Jul 2015 • ~3900 words • Archive Link

This article is about a 110-day, 10,000-mile chase of the fishing trawler Thunder, considered the world's most notorious poacher, by the environmental organization Sea Shepherd. It details the extraordinary pursuit across the high seas, the confrontations between the crews, and the eventual sinking of the Thunder, raising questions about whether it was intentionally scuttled to avoid seizure by authorities. The article explores the broader issues of illegal, unreported and unregulated fishing, the lack of policing on the high seas, and the role of vigilante groups like Sea Shepherd in trying to address these problems.

Emerging on the other side of the storm, the ships settled into several days of radio silence. As much a battle of wills, this endurance race was also a test of fuel capacities. While the Barker never left the Thunder’s trail, the Sam Simon split off several times to resupply. Each time the two vessels moved close enough to connect a refuel hose, the Thunder turned 180 degrees and sped toward them, wedging between them to disrupt the effort.

A Son of the Bayou, Torn Over the Shrimping Life

New York Times • 6 Jan 2011 • ~2900 words • Archive Link

We follow 19-year-old Aaron Greco as he navigates the challenging waters of shrimping life in Louisiana, balancing the weight of family expectations and the harsh realities of a changing industry. As he grapples with the aftermath of the BP oil spill and his desire to carve out his own path, Aaron's story reflects the struggles of a generation tied to a tradition that is increasingly under threat.

Yet Aaron was among those of his generation still drawn to an elemental way of life. He wanted to be his own boss, to spend his days on the teeming marshes outside his door, 30 miles south of New Orleans and a world away. He wanted to pace himself to the rhythm of the oysters, crabs, and his favorite quarry since childhood, the shrimp.

Gone Fishing

The New Yorker • 27 Aug 2005 • ~7650 words • Archive Link

This piece provides an in-depth profile of Dave Pasternack, the executive chef and co-owner of the acclaimed New York City seafood restaurant Esca. It explores Pasternack's deep connection to the fishing industry, his meticulous approach to sourcing and preparing the highest quality seafood, and the ways in which his personal experiences and culinary philosophy have shaped the identity of his restaurant.

The great majority of restaurants in the city, from cozy to corporate, buy all their fish through a single supplier. Pasternack deals with at least fifty: brokers; wholesalers; gill-netters; dredgers; and pinhook, or rod-and-reel, anglers . . . Almost all of it is wild, and none of it has ever been frozen, nor will it be. (The freezer at Esca, no larger than a domestic fridge, is reserved for pasta and desserts.) The fish travel by truck, express mail, air freight, courier, U.P.S. Some arrive at the kitchen still flopping.

End of the line? How Brexit left Hull’s fishing industry facing extinction

the Guardian • 13 Jun 2021 • ~4300 words

Brexit was supposed to revitalize the UK fishing industry, but for Hull's last distant-water trawler, the Kirkella, it has led to uncertainty and idleness. This article explores the struggles faced by the fishing community, reflecting on lost fishing rights and the deep emotional ties that define Hull's maritime culture. It's a poignant look at how political decisions are reshaping lives and livelihoods in this historic port city.

Snarled up in negotiations over fishing rights, which now have to be negotiated with each of the countries in whose waters it works, the UK’s last distant-water trawler sits idle, unable to work in its normal patch off the coasts of Norway, Greenland and the Faroe Islands.