Japan

For this weekend's special, we go to Japan. I hope you enjoy this diverse selection of great reads. Do you have any ideas for future weekend specials? Please send them to info@theslowscroll.com or simply reply to this email.

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If You Knew Sushi

Vanity Fair • 26 May 2007 • ~11750 words • Archive Link

This piece takes you on a journey through Tokyo's iconic Tsukiji fish market. You'll discover the intricacies of sourcing the best fish, the evolving sushi scene, and the surprising ways sushi has adapted beyond Japan. It's a fascinating look at how this beloved cuisine connects cultures and evolves with demand.

Twenty-four people have been to the moon. Only two have been to the deepest trench in the sea, and that was more than 45 years ago. They saw strange fish down there, and I'm sure that if those strange, abyssal fish could be brought to the surface they'd be here, at Tsukiji.

Japanese Tsunami, 5 Years Later: Graduation Day

GQ • 10 Mar 2012 • ~8450 words • Archive Link

This piece takes a haunting look at the aftermath of a tragic tsunami that struck Japan, focusing on the fateful decisions made by teachers and parents during that chaotic day. Through personal stories and painful what-ifs, the author navigates the heartbreaking realities families face, revealing how a series of small choices led to unimaginable loss. It’s a poignant reminder of the fragility of life and the weight of responsibility in moments of crisis.

When a disaster happens on this scale, there is what happens, and then there is the dreadful time lag where people in a disrupted world struggle to discover what has happened to those they love. For a while, a ghastly, delirious limbo persists within which all things are still possible—in which those who have already died might still be alive, and those who have survived might long be dead.

High Spirits

The Awl • 4 Jan 2017 • ~3900 words

This has to be one of the most entertaining pieces I ever read. In it, the author shares a comical and chaotic journey through Japan, punctuated by a quest for a unique dining experience at a restaurant near Mount Fuji. From navigating public transport with a language barrier to discovering the joys of shochu, this piece captures the delightful mishaps of travel and the unexpected connections made along the way.

I picked a direction and walked. I was lucky enough to come upon a tiny fish market, where a woman of about sixty and a man about half her age who I imagined to be her son—because who besides someone’s son would agree to spend his life with a woman twice his age running a fish market in a nearly empty town clinging to the side of the mountain—were hard at work.

How Tokyo Became an Anti-Car Paradise

Heatmap News • 11 Apr 2023 • ~4350 words

This piece discusses how Tokyo has become an "anti-car paradise" and one of the least car-dependent major cities in the world. It explores the historical, policy, and infrastructure factors that have contributed to Tokyo's low car usage, including strict parking requirements, high car ownership costs, and the prioritization of public transportation. The article also considers the challenges of replicating Tokyo's model in other cities and the potential benefits of reducing car dependence in urban areas.

What this adds up to is that Tokyo is one of very few cities on Earth where travel by car is not actively subsidized, and funnily neither is public transport, and yet both work well, when appropriate.

Spirited Away to Miyazaki Land

New York Times • 14 Feb 2023 • ~7500 words • Archive Link

What happens when the enchanting world of Studio Ghibli is brought to life in a theme park? This article takes you on a journey through Ghibli Park, where the beloved characters and settings of Hayao Miyazaki's films come together in unexpected ways. It's a journey that reveals not just the magic of the park, but the deeper connection between Miyazaki's films and the beauty of reality itself.

After a while I told my guides, only half joking, that Ghibli Park seemed like an extremely elaborate way to lure people out into the middle of an obscure Japanese forest. Yes, they said. That is basically correct.

The Sea Of Crises

grantland.com • 5 Nov 2014 • ~9700 words

The article is about the world of sumo wrestling in Japan, focusing on the dominant wrestler Hakuho and his rivalry with Asashoryu. It also explores the cultural and historical context of sumo, including its connections to Japanese mythology and literature, as well as the story of Yukio Mishima, a famous Japanese novelist who committed ritual suicide. The article weaves together these different threads to provide a rich and nuanced portrait of the sport and its place in Japanese society.

Imagine someone playing airplane with a small child. With weird, sliding thrusts of his feet, he inches forward, gliding across the ring’s sand, raising and lowering his head in a way that’s vaguely serpentine while slowly straightening his back. By the time he’s upright again, the crowd is roaring.

A journey along Japan’s oldest pilgrimage route

Financial Times • 8 Sep 2016 • ~9100 words • Archive Link

Barney Jopson takes us along Japan’s oldest pilgrimage route, the Shikoku henro, where spirituality and personal reflection intertwine. Through the experiences of various pilgrims, we learn how this journey serves as a unique opportunity to confront life’s challenges, whether they stem from grief, health, or a quest for meaning. It’s a fascinating look at how tradition and modern life collide on this ancient path.

On my first day I had been warned that this would not be easy. As I visited a string of temples along the Yoshino river, I stopped to talk to a junior priest called Naoki Maeda at temple 2. He told me to remember one thing: Japanese people are not great talkers. “Speech is the silver medal. You get the gold medal for not speaking.”

Can We Ever Make It Suntory Time Again?

Longreads • 29 Oct 2019 • ~6200 words

This reflective piece takes us on a personal journey through the evolving landscape of Japanese whisky, marked by nostalgia and missed opportunities. As prices soar and accessibility dwindles, he explores the memories tied to this beloved spirit and the cultural significance it holds in Japan. It’s a bittersweet look at how a drink can symbolize not just a taste, but a time and place we yearn to hold onto.

When you sip whisky, you don’t have to think about of any of this to enjoy it. You don’t even have to name the flavors you taste. You can just silently appreciate it; it doesn’t have to be any more complicated than that . . . For me, Japanese whisky became more complicated, because I also wanted it to give me something more than it could: a connection to a trip and a time that had passed.

How Japan Copied American Culture and Made it Better

Smithsonian • 21 Mar 2014 • ~3450 words • Archive Link

The article explores how Japan has embraced and reinterpreted various aspects of American culture, from bourbon and jazz to work wear and burgers. It examines how Japanese individuals and businesses have taken American cultural exports and, through their unique perspective and attention to detail, have in many cases improved upon the original.

It’s easy to dismiss Japanese re-creations of foreign cultures as faddish and derivative—just other versions of the way that, for example, the new American hipster ideal of Brooklyn is clumsily copied everywhere from Paris to Bangkok. But the best examples of Japanese Americana don’t just replicate our culture. They strike out, on their own, into levels of appreciation and refinement rarely found in America. They give us an opportunity to consider our culture as refracted through a foreign and clarifying prism.

A Walk to Kobe

Granta • 6 Aug 2013 • ~5000 words • Archive Link

Haruki Murakami takes a solitary walk through Kobe, two years after the devastating earthquake that reshaped the city. As he navigates familiar streets altered by time and trauma, memories intertwine with the present, revealing a poignant exploration of nostalgia, loss, and the search for connection. It’s a journey that resonates with anyone who’s ever returned to a place that feels both familiar and foreign.

So, apart from all the memories I’d stored up for myself (my valuable property), there was no longer any actual connection between me and the Hanshin-kan area. Strictly speaking, it’s not my home town any more. I feel a deep sense of loss at this fact, as if the axis of my memories is faintly, but audibly, creaking within me. It’s a physical sensation . . . Maybe it’s exactly because of that that I wanted to take a walk there, alert and attentive to what I might discover.

MLB: Tomohiro Anraku's future in baseball

ESPN.com • 21 Jul 2013 • ~5950 words • Archive Link

Baseball is very big in Japan. This article explores the intense culture and traditions surrounding high school baseball in Japan, particularly the grueling Koshien tournament, and the potential long-term consequences of the extreme pitching workloads placed on young Japanese pitchers. It raises questions about the sustainability of this system and whether it may be putting the health and careers of promising young pitchers like Anraku at risk.

Every one of his instruments abandoned him, and yet he had continued to throw until his precious right arm hung limp at his side. Don Nomura, the agent who represents Darvish, told Yahoo's Jeff Passan that Anraku's treatment was nothing less than child abuse, a sentiment shared by several American scouts. Those strong words traveled over the ocean and upset many in Japan, where if anyone saw Tomohiro Anraku as a victim, he was blessed to be one. In fact, he's been given the most coveted and celebrated title of all. He is a kaibutsu.

In Search of the Heart of the Online Cat-Industrial Complex

WIRED • 31 Aug 2012 • ~6300 words • Archive Link

If you've ever wondered why the internet can't get enough of cats, this piece takes you on a journey to Japan, where feline fame is taken to a whole new level. As the author explores the quirky world of internet cats, from the iconic Maru to the musical Musashis, you'll discover how these pets have become cultural icons and a unique form of expression in Japanese society.

Maru, which means "circle" or "perfection" in Japanese, is a Scottish fold with nonfolded ears. He is 5 years old and lives in an undisclosed Japanese city that is, by consensual rumor, almost certainly not Tokyo, because no indoor cat in Tokyo has that much space to jump into boxes, especially not the bigger ones. Maru has upwards of 168 million YouTube views and, according to other rumors, has generated enough ad revenue to buy his owner a new apartment. His is the seventh-most-subscribed YouTube channel in Japan.

The Glorious, Almost-Disconnected Boredom of My Walk in Japan

WIRED • 29 May 2019 • ~3700 words • Archive Link

What’s it like to take a long, reflective walk through Japan, completely disconnected from the digital world? In this piece, Craig Mod shares his journey of walking over 600 miles, embracing the boredom and simplicity of the experience. It’s a fascinating exploration of how stepping away from technology can lead to deeper connections with both oneself and the people encountered along the way.

Let me make it clear: I was luxuriously, all-consumingly bored for most of the day. The road was often dreary and repetitive. But as trite as it may sound, within this boredom, I tried to cultivate kindness and patience. A continuous walk is powerful because every day you can choose to be a new person. You flit between towns. You don't really exist. And so this is who I decided to be: a fully present, disgustingly kind hello machine.

I Walked 600 Miles Across Japan for Pizza Toast

Eater • 16 Dec 2019 • ~5650 words • Archive Link

The other side of Craig Mod’s article above, this time, food-centered: This piece takes you on a journey through the country’s unique kissaten cafes, exploring the connections between culture, community, and the unexpected joy of this beloved dish. It also touches on the broader demographic and cultural shifts happening in rural Japan that are contributing to the decline of these traditional establishments.

A few months ago, when I made the decision to walk the Nakasendō, I found myself looking for an organizing principle for the journey. And so, before leaving, I concocted a plan to guide my days. I would eat as many versions of pizza toast, my old stalwart meal, as possible while attempting to track down its origins at the one Japanese establishment where such a thing can be reliably obtained: the traditional kissaten.

Tokyo’s Long Lines Lead to Magic (and Life-Changing Ramen)

AFAR Media • 30 Jul 2018 • ~2300 words

Food writer Helen Rosner dives into the unique experience of waiting in line for ramen in Tokyo. Initially averse to waiting in lines, she comes to appreciate the value and meaning behind the practice in Japanese culture. Join her as she explores the magic that can emerge from patience and the unforgettable flavors that await at the end of the line.

There’s a phrase in Japanese for places like this⎯gyouretsu no dekiru mise: “restaurants that have very long lines.” The lines are often self-fulfilling prophecies: The wait isn’t part of the cost, as I’d always considered it; to a Japanese person, it’s part of the value.

In Japan, the rise of the house husband redraws established gender norms

South China Morning Post • 20 Jul 2018 • ~2950 words • Archive Link

In Japan, traditional gender roles are being challenged as more men embrace the role of house husband, particularly in response to a declining birth rate and an aging population. Amy Westervelt explores this cultural shift through personal stories and societal changes, highlighting how these evolving dynamics are reshaping family life and expectations for both men and women.

Signs began to appear in subways and on crowded streets: an American-inspired, film-poster-style hoarding of an actor dressed in a Superman costume, standing proudly with the word “Ikumen” emblazoned on his chest. Men could be seen actually engaging in fatherhood on television and in films and magazines.

Cute Inc.

WIRED • 1 Dec 1999 • ~5000 words • Archive Link

Ever wonder why Japan has such a unique obsession with all things cute? This article takes you on a colorful journey through the phenomenon of "kawaii," exploring how characters like Hello Kitty and Pikachu have become cultural icons. It delves into the impact of cuteness on everything from consumer habits to social norms, revealing a fascinating side of Japanese life that’s both playful and profound.

There, the pull of the cute is a powerful and omnipresent force. The Japanese are born into cute and raised with cute. They grow up to save money with cute (Miffy the bunny on Asahi Bank ATM cards), to pray with cute (Hello Kitty charm bags at Shinto shrines), to have sex with cute (prophylactics decorated with Monkichi the monkey, a condom stretched over his body, entreating, "Would you protect me?").

In Search of Japanese Roots

Discover Magazine • 1 Jun 1998 • ~6150 words

The origins of the Japanese people are a fascinating puzzle that intertwines genetics, language, and culture. This article dives into the complexities surrounding their ancestry, exploring theories that range from ancient Ice Age inhabitants to significant migrations from Korea. The article also discusses how these historical questions have become politically charged and influenced relations between Japan and its neighbors.

Who among East Asian peoples brought culture to whom? Who has historical claims to whose land? These are not just academic questions. For instance, there is much archeological evidence that people and material objects passed between Japan and Korea in the period a.d. 300 to 700. Japanese interpret this to mean that Japan conquered Korea and brought Korean slaves and artisans to Japan; Koreans believe instead that Korea conquered Japan and that the founders of the Japanese imperial family were Korean.

‘I Have No Choice but to Keep Looking’

New York Times • 2 Aug 2016 • ~6000 words • Archive Link

In the aftermath of the devastating tsunami that struck Japan, Yasuo Takamatsu has spent years searching the sea for his wife, Yuko, who vanished that day. Jennifer Percy’s poignant piece captures the relentless hope and heartache of those left behind, as Takamatsu and others like him dive into the depths, navigating both danger and grief in their quest for closure.

On weekends, Hiromi prepared special lunchboxes for Emi that she would deliver into the sea on Sunday. They were packed with Emi’s favorite meals, things like pork soup, Salisbury steak, deep-fried shrimp, all in special boxes that decomposed. She tossed the boxes off boat ramps, piers or rock ledges or set them gently adrift on the water. Always someplace hidden, where no one would see her.

Check In With the Velociraptor at the World's First Robot Hotel

WIRED • 2 Mar 2016 • ~7750 words • Archive Link

Discover the Henn-na Hotel in Japan, which is the world's first hotel staffed entirely by robots. It explores the implications of using robots in the service industry, particularly in the context of traditional Japanese hospitality, and questions whether human interactions can be replaced by robotic ones. The article delves into the history of the hotel's development, the technology behind the robot staff, and the broader societal and philosophical implications of this shift towards automation.

On the one hand, Japan is the kind of place where you might buy one macaroon and recline on a corn-husk pillow as the macaroon is placed in a protective sapphire box, then wrapped in the finest antique silk, and finally delivered unto your outstretched hand with a personalized haiku and a three-minute standing ovation. On the other, Japan has for decades been at the vanguard of service-industry robotics research, developing, employing, and exporting androidal assistants for health care, eldercare, sexual relations, and even simple company.

Turning Japanese

The Long and Short • 19 Mar 2015 • ~2050 words

In this piece the author travels between Japan and the U.S. to examine how a country often labeled as stagnant may actually hold valuable lessons for the world. It delves into Japan's unique blend of societal resilience and quiet endurance, challenging the notion that growth is the only path to improvement. It's an intriguing look at how embracing limitations can lead to sustainability and a redefined sense of progress.

Intuitively, this entropic, shrinking, even disappearing Japan shouldn’t look and feel as good as it does. To visitors, expats and residents alike, Japan is still one of the richest, most civilised and convenient countries in the world.